Sunday 24 May 2015

Its Alive....


After alot of head scratching I thought I would check some rewiring I had to do to the throttle position sensor. Seems like the later engines come with an additional section of loom that connections the TPS to the main loom. Unfortunately I don't have this section of the loom and at £39.95 I wasn't going to buy one either so I had to make my own. I took the rule of a few other connector checking the wiring from right to left and wired in the TPS in the same way..  Typical when I rewired this I got a spark straight away..

The first start up.. Embarrassing that my Mother had popped round at the same time, perhaps she came with some luck.


Second Start...


The engine is crazy loud with just the downpipes fitted.. I must get the pipework and silencer ordered as run time will be a minimum for now else I will seriously piss off the neighbours.. 


First Start up attempt


So everything is ready, the wiring loom test fitted, fuel pump fitted, fuel lines all sorted, fuel in the tank, coolants filled, oil filled and getting cranking pressure.

Time for first turn of the key!!!



Well it was never going to go first time was it.

Its turning over fine so I know I am halfway there. I removed the spark plugs and I am not getting any sparks so this seems to be my problem.

My engine is a UK CBR so comes with HISS, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't even get the engine turning over if my HISS was not working.  To check this I checked the the fuel tank power feed as it primes the tank when the ignition is turned on HISS activation. A multimeter showed 12v for 1-2 seconds when the ignition first comes on so I know HISS is working. I originally had my fuel pump wired into the car loom, which gave the fuel pump constraint power as soon as the ignition comes on. This would work fine but the pump carries on priming all the time the ignition is on, whether or not the engine is running or not. I have since rewired this so its wired into the bike loom, now when the ignition comes on it primes for 1-2 seconds then doesn't kick in again until started.

Back onto my problem of no spark.. All my Starter, kill switch,, side stand, Neutral, clutch switch wiring all seemed to be in order. Again I don't think it would turn over without this all working.

Now I was stumped, really not sure why it won't fire.  Time to check the engine for fault codes, luckily I kept the DLC port to be able to pull some codes. I don't however have the clocks so I had to wire the fault code (FI Light) into the neutral light on my digidash to see the flashing lights of the DLC port. The Honda manual gives good instructions on how this system works. I used the neutral light on the digidash to also check the HISS light was coming on and going out.

The faults reported were 8, 11 and 1.  I cleared the reports and tried again, still no spark. Check reports again and nothing..

Time to have a think..




Final bits before I can fire her up...


Connected up the rectifier, HiSS and a few other bits.


Fitted a relay from the bikes loom to switch power to the car loom when the bikes ignition is turned on.


Must order some more wire crimpers, mine are knackered. Pretty sure the blade at the top is suppose to meet.


More soldering and lots of heat sink.






I wired the digidash in so I could make sure I could see what oil pressure I was getting.



Fuel pump all connected and wired up.




Test fitting the loom..


Before I took anymore out of the loom I wanted to make sure everything worked and I was happy it would all work and start. So the next step was to test fit the loom and get the engine going.

It looks a mess but its all plugged in, fingers crossed it will work.







Tuesday 19 May 2015

Filter change, filling with oil.


I removed the original oil filter, it had only been on the bike for a 3k but thought it was best to replace as they are so cheap. 



Been told to only use genuine Honda filters.


I pre-filled the filter, allowed the filter to absorb all of the oil and kept topping up until it wouldn't hold anymore. Then I fitted this to the sandwich plate.




The oil cooler also needed prefilling. 





Sorry forgot to photograph the next bit.. 

So removed the dipstick, and emptied the rest of the 3.7L of oil into the engine. 



I then connected the starter motor directly to the battery and turned over the engine to get the oil pumping round the system.

I connected up the digidash to the oil pressure sensor to make sure I was getting oil pressure. After a few turns of the engine and removal and refitting of the oil filter I was getting 5-6 psi of pressure on turnover. 

Saturday 16 May 2015

Oil Pressure Sensor


I planned to fill the engine with oil today so needed to finish the oil pressure sensor.





I used a rivnut to secure the clip to the chassis.



The ground cable was connected to the chassis.


Filling with coolant..


Been waiting a while to do this but finally have the system full of coolant. Was surprised at how much water the system held.

I used washing up liquid on the alley pipework to make it easier to push together when I was working out the sizes. Not such a good idea as it mixed with the water and made bubbles, they will disappear i'm sure.








Couple of videos..  The motor is quite powerful yet pretty quiet.








Expansion tank mount.


Not completely happy with the header tank and I plan to change for a bottom mounted tank in the future. I don't want to mount anything on the scuttle so its easily removable to gain access to the electrics. 

I've already has the header tank modified with the top inlet and i've got the pipework suitable for it so I am going to keep it until after the IVA. 


I don't want to mount it on the scuttle so I need to make a mount for it.




I am really pleased with the results. Its only a folded bit of aluminium but it works very well.